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#5801 nickvespe

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Posted 13 March 2012 - 08:39 AM

For those of you beginners who do not understand photography terminology this goofy guy can help. the video is kinda gay and he pronounces stuff oddly. but he gives examples of what things are and how they work


comp is way too tight.

Ya I know, My battery was about to die so I didn't set my ISO.



 

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#5802 tylar-tang

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 03:36 PM

http://www.youtube.c...a06FUAAAAAAAGAA
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http://www.flickr.co...s/73820489@N07/

 


#5803 Sam Phillips

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 04:36 PM

so im thinking about getting into flash photography and cant decide on a flash to buy. im looking at a cheap flash that just gets the job done. im looking at the Neewer TT560. based on reviews it looks like a "good enough" flash.

but i thought id go on here and see what you guys think. suggestions for other budget flashes would be nice.

thanks

#5804 Ethan13

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 04:56 PM

so im thinking about getting into flash photography and cant decide on a flash to buy. im looking at a cheap flash that just gets the job done. im looking at the Neewer TT560. based on reviews it looks like a "good enough" flash.

but i thought id go on here and see what you guys think. suggestions for other budget flashes would be nice.

thanks

The old standby, the Vivitar 285(hv)?

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#5805 johnnygetsilly

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 08:52 PM

I'm a starter on the whole developing my own B&W film, is this list all I should need? (excluding squeegees, trays, etc.)

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#5806 EspSkate

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 09:09 PM

a thermometer, photoflo, a beaker, a changing bag / completely dark room, I would stay away from powder chemistry just starting out.

soul sk8er photographer, bro.

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#5807 johnnygetsilly

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 09:17 PM

Alright thanks man! I'm hoping on going to the camera store this weekend and I'm sure they'll help me get my hands on some chemistry. Wooh, excited!
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#5808 KyleCochran

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Posted 21 March 2012 - 05:29 PM

So I've been noticing that a lot of times when shooting skating with my rokinon 8mm that usually something is out of focus on the skater, wether it be his hand, face, board, etc. (not motion blur). Anyone got some tricks on how to get crisp shots with this lens every time?

#5809 KyleCochran

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Posted 21 March 2012 - 05:31 PM

best AA batteries for my vivitar 285hv? standard everyday duracell ones i've been trying to use don't recycle if it's cold.

also i take it any brand of flash will work with any camera? such as nikon flash, canon camera?

Kirkland brand AA's from Costco kick ass. I buy a big brick for $10 and it lasts me months.

#5810 nickvespe

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Posted 23 March 2012 - 03:39 PM

So I've been noticing that a lot of times when shooting skating with my rokinon 8mm that usually something is out of focus on the skater, wether it be his hand, face, board, etc. (not motion blur). Anyone got some tricks on how to get crisp shots with this lens every time?

yes.

i did like a test with different objects away, every focusing stop and every aperture.

at f/5.6 at 1 meter I have found everything is in focus when i shoot skating. make sure its 1M not 1FT
and always at f/5.6 - 8

comp is way too tight.

Ya I know, My battery was about to die so I didn't set my ISO.



 

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#5811 tylar-tang

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Posted 28 March 2012 - 07:26 PM

in need of help

is the nikon n6006 film model an f mount?

someone please hit me with a reply so i can know that the nikkor lenses i already have will fit on the d3100
the forum is so advanced nowadays, weve got utube vids and liking, plus no modz. really a great age 2 b alive.

 

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#5812 nickvespe

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Posted 28 March 2012 - 07:48 PM

in need of help

is the nikon n6006 film model an f mount?

someone please hit me with a reply so i can know that the nikkor lenses i already have will fit on the d3100

yes it's an f mount. anything after the nikon f is fmount. check to see if your lenses will autofocus though, i know with the consumer bodies, all lenses don't autofocus sometimes.

comp is way too tight.

Ya I know, My battery was about to die so I didn't set my ISO.



 

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#5813 dick fitzwell

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Posted 06 April 2012 - 06:25 PM

just bought a camera and starting to learn the ins and outs. been reading up on ISO settings for digital cameras a little but still don't really understand. could someone explain how they affect the photo and what is best to use for different circumstances?
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#5814 nickvespe

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Posted 07 April 2012 - 12:20 AM

just bought a camera and starting to learn the ins and outs. been reading up on ISO settings for digital cameras a little but still don't really understand. could someone explain how they affect the photo and what is best to use for different circumstances?

iso is the film or sensors sensitivity to light.
don't get it confused with how much ambient light is let in by the shutter speed or how much actual light is let in by the aperture of the lens.
iso creates noise. noise is created because the film needs larger crystals to capture more light or the sensor is really pushing its limits and creating noise to add available light to. the only reason you should have to raise it is if you can reduce the iso in post processing in lightroom and you HAVE to shoot in a dark space. typically you want to avoid shooting past 1000 iso on most common digital cameras. but some higher end ones handle the iso so well. i typically shoot at 100-400 iso. if you use high ISO the compensation is you lose quality and gain noise. it really is a factor you don't want to mess with until you've dialed in the necessary aperture and shutter speed.

comp is way too tight.

Ya I know, My battery was about to die so I didn't set my ISO.



 

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#5815 Hypnotizedd

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Posted 07 April 2012 - 01:00 AM

just bought a camera and starting to learn the ins and outs. been reading up on ISO settings for digital cameras a little but still don't really understand. could someone explain how they affect the photo and what is best to use for different circumstances?



The higher the iso, the more light you can use to get a photo in low light sitations, but it causes grain.

I always try and shoot at 100 iso, (bright out)

somtimes indoors i shoot at 400 iso (enough light to get the shot out)

at night i shoot 3400 iso (dark out)

#5816 dick fitzwell

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Posted 07 April 2012 - 04:27 AM

ahh right i get it now. thanks guys
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#5817 Gonzalo

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Posted 09 April 2012 - 06:22 AM

The higher the iso, the more light you can use to get a photo in low light sitations, but it causes grain.

I always try and shoot at 100 iso, (bright out)

somtimes indoors i shoot at 400 iso (enough light to get the shot out)

at night i shoot 3400 iso (dark out)



wtf..

Your ISO depends on the ligh available, you should use the best ISO for each situation. saying that you shoot 100ISO when there's ligh and 400 indoors or even 3400 when it's dark is ridiculous man..

I'd challenge you to shoot indoor with scarce light with your 400ISO to shoot action stuff, even if it's just some kids moving.
And you can easily use lower ISO's than 3400 at night depending (again) on what you are shooting..Do you use 3400 ISO on long exposures for example? And when I said easily I actually meant it, if you use a fast lens (f1.8 or 1.4) and there's some light around there's probably no need to use a 3400ISO unless you're shooting action shit or concerts that have basically no light.

You should probably read about ISO/Shutter speed/Apperture concepts because what you just wrote is like making a general and basic rule for something that is a lot more complex than that.


@fitzwell

You should first see how does your camera manage the grain at higher ISO's and then you have to combine your ISO with your shutter/apperture in order to get the desired result.
There's not really a rule for all situations like Hypnotizzed said..

#5818 Sam Phillips

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Posted 09 April 2012 - 08:13 PM

Not really a reply, but i found two videos that really helped me with composition

How To: Composition - Skateboarding Photographer Michael Burnett


How To: Composition - Skateboarding Photographer Michael Burnett - In Focus (Part 2 of 2)



hope this helps

#5819 Hablu

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Posted 09 April 2012 - 09:58 PM

Been wanting to shoot film for a long time but I always walked off course some how. I just bought a Pentax K1000(thanks to whoever a few pages ago recommended this) on ebay though and will be the proud owner in a week or so. I'm pretty stoked to say the least. Is a 35mm scanner pretty convenient? I was planning on just getting my film developed at Walgreens or something.

Can't wait to shoot :rolleyes:

#5820 Gonzalo

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Posted 10 April 2012 - 07:34 AM

It depends on how much film you'll be developing, just do the math about the costs of developing yourself+scanning and developing at Walgreens.




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