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Support Thread For Idiots That Nearly Have To Sell Their Nsx To Fund A Cocaine Habit

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question, how hard was it to bondo the rust spots. I'm thinking about doing it... mine are lil. Could I conquer it myself.

I've bondo'd large dents in my fender. It takes a lot of time, and then paint matching is a pain in the ass. If you know anyone in the industry see if you can get a good deal or someone to help you. Otherwise you will make it look like shit and waste your time (and money), or make it look worse.

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dat corvette

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dat huge picture

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Your point is...?

 

Just wanted to let you know. Seemed like you thought it was an FJ Cruiser... whatever

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Installed clear corner markers, tails, and side markers today/last night. I love the look, more to come soon, finally selling the e39 means finally modding the e34. ohh yeah

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rode in my buddies mk5 with the ej400 kit pushing around 400hp, shits insane.

 

Also installing a James Bond style stealth garage door opener in my dead buttons

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got to the last step and realized i bought the wrong switch so I have to buy the right one when the hardware store opens tomorrow morning and finish up.

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I've bondo'd large dents in my fender. It takes a lot of time, and then paint matching is a pain in the ass. If you know anyone in the industry see if you can get a good deal or someone to help you. Otherwise you will make it look like shit and waste your time (and money), or make it look worse.

 

So I shouldnt even try? It's only like 2.5 inches maybe. And paint matching can be done online pretty easily if you have the right letter/number combination out of the paper on your door jamp.

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So I shouldnt even try? It's only like 2.5 inches maybe. And paint matching can be done online pretty easily if you have the right letter/number combination out of the paper on your door jamp.

Well depending on your car colour. What ever touch up paint you buy still isn't going to be the same as your car, every body shop will tell you the same. The basic stages - sanding the rust to be flush, bondoing, sanding, bondoing, sanding, finer and finer to get a better finish. Once it is absolute perfection you primer it(something light if your car is light), multiple coats of primer if your car is light. Then wait over night, back sand the primer very light. Then very very light coats of your touch up spray, this isn't going to be glossy no matter how many coats. Then once it looks half decent you need to get some clear coat gloss, as many coats as you want to match.

 

This can take a long time, and may not work out so well if you mess up one stage or get drips. I clicked the guy selling his Prelude and it's funny because the guy selling his Prelude didn't paint to match, nor clear coat which is the stage which decides everything, it's fairly hard to tell if you fucked up the bondo when you primer, but once you back sand the primer to put your actual paint on it's blatantly obvious.

 

Or the lazy way if you don't plan on reselling your car for as much as it's worth. Grinding is good but not sure if your rust is that deep

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Fix...Spots-On-a-Car/

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Lambo dump

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And to that kid that was asking what SUV to get, I can't believe I forgot to mention this possibility...

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I got my hands on a 1981 yamaha sr250, runs like a champ with only 15,000 original miles on it for 400$. i plan on chopping it up this winter and making it a bobber.

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i plan on making it look like this bike with some other mods

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My car has been creaking quite loudly at slow speeds for a while now, I thought the grease on my rear sway had just come out because I didn't use marine grease, so I bought some last week, re greased today and it was still creaking. Turns out it was an under-torqued endlink bolt, so I just re torqued all 4 rear bots and am squeak free. I'm so happy that it's taken care of.

pic I shot the other day

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Shop Car by Ian@XEMS, on Flickr

 

favorite car :)

 

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Well depending on your car colour. What ever touch up paint you buy still isn't going to be the same as your car, every body shop will tell you the same. The basic stages - sanding the rust to be flush, bondoing, sanding, bondoing, sanding, finer and finer to get a better finish. Once it is absolute perfection you primer it(something light if your car is light), multiple coats of primer if your car is light. Then wait over night, back sand the primer very light. Then very very light coats of your touch up spray, this isn't going to be glossy no matter how many coats. Then once it looks half decent you need to get some clear coat gloss, as many coats as you want to match.

 

This can take a long time, and may not work out so well if you mess up one stage or get drips. I clicked the guy selling his Prelude and it's funny because the guy selling his Prelude didn't paint to match, nor clear coat which is the stage which decides everything, it's fairly hard to tell if you fucked up the bondo when you primer, but once you back sand the primer to put your actual paint on it's blatantly obvious.

 

Or the lazy way if you don't plan on reselling your car for as much as it's worth. Grinding is good but not sure if your rust is that deep

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Fix...Spots-On-a-Car/

 

 

appreciate all the info. ironic how we're talking about fixin my 'ole honda amongst all dese NSX fotoz. hahaha. My car is a darkish charcoal/green/black color. The only reason I want to fix the rust is because that's like the only body imperfection my car has, and it just pulls your eye right to it. Idk, if i can do it for under a hundred or two bucks it's well well worth it.

 

Know of any good paint matching sites? or is it all basically the same if you have the code out of the door jamb? Damn i need to research.

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Thought you might like these, saw these parked next to eachother at a bank today..

Nice! I think I recognize the black one from nsxprime.

 

What do you guys think of the new Jag? I think its downright sexy.

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