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dick fitzwell

Timelapse With Manual Lens

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Does anyone have any advice for compensating for light changes while shooting timelapses with a manual lens? I want to shoot day to night lapses with my fisheye but only being able to shoot in manual mode on my cam means i can't set the shutter speed to change.

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Are you going to be unable to attend the camera during the whole time lapse? You might just shoot in raw, do one exposure setting that's good enough for most of the day, then set for for day-night transition, then set one for night to morning transition and hope that since it's raw you'll be able to correct and moderate differences.

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no, it's a fully manual lens so having the camera set to anything other than manual i get the "lens not attached" message

 

 

Are you going to be unable to attend the camera during the whole time lapse? You might just shoot in raw, do one exposure setting that's good enough for most of the day, then set for for day-night transition, then set one for night to morning transition and hope that since it's raw you'll be able to correct and moderate differences.

 

not sure how possible that is. here's a test one i did today, i can't see how there's any exposure setting that would be reasonable throughout that whole timeframe.

 

by day to night transition are you talking about using that iphone app or whatever that gradually changes the shutter speed?

 

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That test looked pretty good, those are are stills from some kind of digital camera? What camera is it, are you using a manual lens with an adapter? If you shoot in raw you should be able to smooth over any weird exposure issues.

By transitions I mean that during the day, the light's going to be more or less the same or at least not too different that raw's and processing can't handle. So like from 9am-5pm you'll use one setting that works ok enough for that time frame, then probably change it to a different setting for 5pm-sundown, then a third setting for night time since most of the light should be artificial and it won't change, you should be ok there. Then you'd need a new setting for sunrise-9am and you've got your 24 hours. I'm not sure on those times exactly, depends on your location.

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Depending on the camera aperture priority is a good option as kraepelin said, I've done a few with a takumar mounted on my 600d with a plain metal adapter and it works fine, it just changes the shutter speed to compensate for the changes in light.

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why not shutter priority? auto iso?

Depending on the camera aperture priority is a good option as kraepelin said, I've done a few with a takumar mounted on my 600d with a plain metal adapter and it works fine, it just changes the shutter speed to compensate for the changes in light.

 

it's a fully manual lens so having the camera set to anything other than manual i get the "lens not attached" message

i can't shoot any priority mode, auto ISO doesn't work either

 

 

 

That test looked pretty good, those are are stills from some kind of digital camera? What camera is it, are you using a manual lens with an adapter? If you shoot in raw you should be able to smooth over any weird exposure issues.

By transitions I mean that during the day, the light's going to be more or less the same or at least not too different that raw's and processing can't handle. So like from 9am-5pm you'll use one setting that works ok enough for that time frame, then probably change it to a different setting for 5pm-sundown, then a third setting for night time since most of the light should be artificial and it won't change, you should be ok there. Then you'd need a new setting for sunrise-9am and you've got your 24 hours. I'm not sure on those times exactly, depends on your location.

thanks, yes their from my D5200 and samyang 8mm. the outcome is not what i'm going for at all. it's fine up until the sun goes down, but that street is full of light. here's a shot of it to show what it should be looking like

 

O9CGWfv.jpg

 

got you on the transitions, thanks. would still be good to know if there's another way round it so i can shoot without being present

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i can't shoot any priority mode, auto ISO doesn't work either

I know when I had some kind of shitty canon dslr it would work with apeture priority, but that one would just think the apeture was at f.0 and measure from there with whatever actual light was coming in. So maybe even getting a different body from a buddy or something?

 

Is this the same thing you needed the intervalmeter for? Is there no way to set your shutter speed on there?

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Is there a way to wait, save up and buy a better one?

 

One of the few good pieces of advice I got in school is that if you want to do something, do it proper and spend the money. This is obviously something you are spending a bit of energy on, so is it worth doing it proper?

 

Buy a better lens even. Rent one? Borrow it from a buddy for a hundred bucks?

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Auto ISO doesn't work? I feel like that should work regardless of what lens you're using.

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