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The Off Camera Flash Tutorial

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I dont see why 2 544's wouldnt be sufficient because you could save like 100 bucks right there and...the 544's are still more powerfull than the 285

2 544s would be just fine...i was just telling him the "ideal" setup, and those were the 1st flashes (besides Qflashes) that came to mind.

 

In fact, i just ordered a 544, and im quite happy.

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how do i find out the flahs power, output or whatever of my flashs, it doesnt say anywhere on them. google?

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Just a visual for what Alec said. . . here's the back of a 555

 

555back.jpg

 

Set the top dial to your film speed, then adjust the bottom dial until the distance of the flash matches the appropriate aperture. This is adjusting the flash output, not the non existent "flash aperture"

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Does the 544 have the same thing going on the calculation system, like the 555 does?

 

And coalition, i think you mentioned the body only 544 on keh before, is that what you got?

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Does the 544 have the same thing going on the calculation system, like the 555 does?

 

And coalition, i think you mentioned the body only 544 on keh before, is that what you got?

Yeh same things just different layout i believe the 544 has a circular dial on the back.

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Does the 544 have the same thing going on the calculation system, like the 555 does?

 

And coalition, i think you mentioned the body only 544 on keh before, is that what you got?

naw, i bought a new one off fredmiranda.com for $115.

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naw, i bought a new one off fredmiranda.com for $115.

fredmiranda pisses me off haha, i think i've made 3 threads all of which were tottally ignored. As for all of the other pages all the stuff is either about digital cameras, or rediculous lighting setups. The pictures posted on that site usually quite good though. I find photo.net forums to be very helpful but you will find some of the most out there pictures posted on that site haha, sorry to branch of like this

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i dont know if im just dumb... but iv got 1 flash that i only use automatically if i really need to..... all this just scares me. my sport is bmx, not skate, and i dont shoot many bmx photos anyway.

 

i would really like to learn more about all this, but after reading through every post in this thread, i found it pretty damn complicated.

 

im pretty amature too. wont TTL work

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i dont know if im just dumb... but iv got 1 flash that i only use automatically if i really need to..... all this just scares me. my sport is bmx, not skate, and i dont shoot many bmx photos anyway.

 

i would really like to learn more about all this, but after reading through every post in this thread, i found it pretty damn complicated.

 

im pretty amature too. wont TTL work

no, because, if i'm correct, it exposes perfectly for the whole scene, where as with skate/snow/bmx whatever photography, you want the background under exposed and the skater/snowboarder/bmxer exposed properly. i dont know much about TTL though...some one else could probably answer your question more thouroghly.

 

and im sure someone has written about it in these forums...use the search button.

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well i dont really know much about guid numbers but this is what i do i meter for the ambient then setup flashes and meter flashes till i get the flashes to read 1 or 2 stops over the ambient so therefor the ambient is under exposed but is there some rule i should be following like how far i should set my flashes when shooting at certin powers and aperature?

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I think if the ratio between distance and power is the same, the only difference distance makes is the flash coverage, soft/dramatic lighting

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Aperture

 

Lens opening. The hole or opening formed by the metal leaf diaphragm inside the lens or the opening in a camera lens through which light passes to expose the film. The size of aperture is either fixed or adjustable. Aperture size is usually calibrated in f- numbers-the larger the number, the smaller the lens opening. Aperture affects depth of field, the smaller the aperture, the greater is the zone of sharpness, the bigger the aperture, the zone of sharpness is reduced. The hole or opening formed by the metal leaf diaphragm inside the lens; controls amount of light and depth of field, prevents vignetting and reduces lens aberrations; the size of the aperture is indicated by its f-number, i.e., the ratio of the diameter of the opening to the focal length of the lens; a large aperture is indicated by a small numerical f-number.

 

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flashes change output to expose properly at a given aperture, they don't actually have an aperture. i'm sure most of you know this and it's just a term thing but i dont want beginners to be confused.

This is merely a technical equipment definition. the universal definition is light passing through an opening, in reference to light in general or an optical device. Take the simple rule of camera obscura, the hole in which light passes through is considered an aperture but it lacks any metal leaves or lens.

 

Your ruling still stands, Im pretty sure a flash doesnt have an aperture.

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ok, so i think i have my flash shit pretty dialed, but when it comes to shooting night time shots with little to no ambient light what should i do?

 

Should i meter ambient and lets say get F2.5 at 1/8, then set my flashes one stop above? or should i set up my flashes and and get a high shutter speed and good aperture and just light the whole area and forget about ambiant light all together?

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Should i meter ambient and lets say get F2.5 at 1/8, then set my flashes one stop above? or should i set up my flashes and and get a high shutter speed and good aperture and just light the whole area and forget about ambiant light all together?

Seems like metering ambient in very dark conditions is just a waste of time to me.

 

Obviously you dont wanna shoot at an 1/8th.

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well the whole point of underexposing the ambient is to make the places where the flash isnt touching darker, and so with it being dark all around anyway, you dont need to underexpose the ambient.

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so a viv285hv has a guide number of 120 at iso 100 what about at iso 50 or 200 or 400?

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Guest rhys

ive tried on google but i cant find the guide number to my vivitar 125. any help or if anyone knows?

thanks

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Seems like metering ambient in very dark conditions is just a waste of time to me.

 

Obviously you dont wanna shoot at an 1/8th.

 

Yeah im also kinda of confused on shooting at night. I shot some stuff the other night and got my film back and its wayy underexposed. I had my shutter at 1/60 and when i metered the ambient there wasnt enough to get a correct exposure (obviously). So i just chose an apeture of F/8. So my camera was set to 1/60 @ F/8. Then i set my flash up at a distance and power to give me F/8(according to the calculations on the flash) and shot some photos. So i guess my question is, when there isnt enough available light to shoot with the shutterspeed you want, can you just choose the apeture you want and set your flash to give you that apeture? According to my photos i took the other night you cant do this, but mabey i did something wrong.

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Im not sure if i uderstand your question so il just toss out some facts. If you flash dial guide thing said it would be properly exposed at f8, and your camera was set to f8, what the flash hit will be properly exposed(or very close), regardless of what you shutter was at.

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Aight ill try to re-word what i was saying. I was shooting at night and i wanted my shutter to be 1/60, so i set it to that. Now no matter what apeture i selected, the cameras internal light meter says it is underexposed, which makes sense. So i just chose F/8 and i thought, well if i set my flash to give me F/8 and im shooting at F/8 then it should turn out correctly exposed. But it didnt and im kinda confused on that. I get that 1/60 @ F/8 at night will result in a underexposed picture, so do i need to set up my flash for F/11 or F/16?

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That sounds right... if you metered all of your flashes at the skater to give you f8, and the camera was f8, and the film iso was either 100 or taken into account, your photo would have been fine. The background would have been very underexposed. It's also possible your flashes missed.

 

Aight ill try to re-word what i was saying. I was shooting at night and i wanted my shutter to be 1/60, so i set it to that. Now no matter what apeture i selected, the cameras internal light meter says it is underexposed, which makes sense. So i just chose F/8 and i thought, well if i set my flash to give me F/8 and im shooting at F/8 then it should turn out correctly exposed. But it didnt and im kinda confused on that. I get that 1/60 @ F/8 at night will result in a underexposed picture, so do i need to set up my flash for F/11 or F/16?

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wait, wait, wait......ok so the formula that was given is to meter flashes if you don't have a light meter? And what i don't get is if that is the case after you do all the nessasary calculations and get all the flashes in order what do you set your camera apeture at? And when i do get a meter what am i supposed to do about getting a reading off the skater so if he is ollieing a ten stair, do i just stand were i think he will be when i take the picture and meter of him standing on the rail or something?

 

well i hope that makes sence, thanks for any help.

 

o and P.S.- can you also explain how i would go about under or over exposing a backround. thanks again

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